Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2017

henschke mount edelstone - wimbledon wine cellar

19+ points, Matthew Jukes, MatthewJukes.com – 28th March, 2022

Planted in 1912 and with an easterly aspect and lower altitude (400m) than The Wheelright, Prue Henschke describes this soil type in this historic vineyard as ‘a dream’.  Sandy loam over gravelly red clay and, below, layers of micaceous schist equal the perfect Henschke soil sandwich!  Prue recognises that these strata give her wines more vigour and more power, and I can echo these thoughts because this is one of the most expressive young Henschke wines I have seen.  There is no doubt that the flavours and perfumes in the glass directly reflect this precise site; this is all you can ask of a great wine.  The purity of the blackberry theme is sensational and while the French oak does what French oak always tries to do – add gravitas and detail – it is the 14% American oak from the Appalachian Mountains that adds style, richness, and a touch of glamour to proceedings.  After all of the action, the finish is respectfully prim, and tart and I love it when wines finish correctly on the palate with a ‘proper full stop’.  I am aware that I get rather over-excited about Mount Edelstone, and so I paid particular attention to how this wine opened up over the course of four days, and it simply unfurled an immense array of charm and intricacy that, on first tasting, was discreetly hidden behind panels of flavour.  This is a thrillingly controlled wine with invigorating flavours, and it will make three decades in a good cellar. (Drink 2025 – 2050)

98 points, Sarah Ahmed, Decanter – 29th March, 2022

Kaleidoscopic, this glorious vintage is terroir translucent, transporting you to the vineyard with its signature aromas of dried sage, Eucalyptus olida (aka Strawberry Gum), wild mint, wattleseed, nutmeg and tinder. Soaring and super-expressive, these scents bring compelling dimension and meld exquisitely on the sweet, juicy plum and bramble palate, with its cocoa nib and earthy hints. Graceful, willowy tannins and mineral acidity make for a long, fluid, markedly perfumed finish. Irresistible already! Drinking Window 2022 – 2042

17.5+ points, Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com – 28th March, 2022

Full screwcapped bottle a modest 1,264 g. 100% Shiraz from an east-facing vineyard at around 400 m, lower and warmer than Wheelwright, planted in 1912 by Ronald Angas on deep red-brown clay-loam to clay, first bottled as a single-vineyard wine in 1952! Probably Australia's longest, consecutively-produced, single-vineyard wine. Vines managed with organic and biodynamic practices and picked 19 to 24 April. Vine training has evolved from a hanging canopy to Scott Henry. Anti-frost measures were installed in 2014 because the lower part of the vineyard was vulnerable. Matured in (26% new) oak hogsheads, of which 14% were American rather than French, for 18 months before blending and bottling. pH 3.59, TA 6.4 g/l. Although it's four times as extensive as the Hill of Roses vineyard, there are lots of missing vines so it's certainly not four times as productive.

Much richer than The Wheelwright (though made in exactly the same way), and layered, with balsam notes. Lots of savoury herbs on the nose ('very Eden Valley' according to Stephen Henschke) and richly nuanced on the palate with a dry finish. Very subtle oak indeed. Velvety tannins and something saline, plus a hint of spearmint. So clean and refreshing on the end. Very clever winemaking. 14.5%

Drink 2023 – 2033

97 points, Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion – 5th April, 2022

Form a single vineyard of 105yo shiraz vines on Mount Edelstone in the Eden Valley, farmed according to organic and biodynamic practices. Aged in 86/14% French and American oak (26% new) for 18 months. I was lucky enough to live next door to the Mount Edelstone vineyard for 8 years and have consumed a fair amount of Cooper's Green on the bench at the summit; I have seen the amount of fastidious work Henschke put into the vineyard. It's a special place. Bright, intense blackberry and blackcurrant fruits mesh with hints of Asian spice, tar, turned earth, rosehip, sage and high-cocoa dark chocolate. Displaying a beautiful, pure, dark fruit flow, it's a wonderfully complex wine with ripe long-grain tannins and sprightly mineral acid drive, finishing very long and graceful with a core of cassis and spice. Will cellar magnificently.

96 points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review – 28th March, 2022

Deep, dark-red to brick-red colour, with an intense bouquet featuring strong notes of 'eucalypt forest floor'. The wine is soft and sinewy in mouth-feel, just full-bodied and quite elegant but for the kick of alcohol at the finish. The dried-herb aromas are complex and there's a dominant note of sage. The finish has a touch of bitterness that demands just a little more time will resolve. It's concentrated and super-powerful and the structure is impressive. Long-term.

95 points, Nick Stock, JamesSuckling.com – 27th March, 2022

This has quite elegant red plum, raspberry and so much spice in this cooler vintage, together with gentle earthiness, then red plum and such expressive fragrance. Opens up to such primary complexity with air. There’s sleekness to the palate – acidity has thrived in this cooler vintage – and it carries a sense of depth and purpose in terms of fruit expression and is so focused. Long, very fresh finish. This cooler vintage suits Mount Edelstone. Lower yields with good concentration. Drink over the next decade or more. Screw cap.

Wine available mid-June 2022

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£675.00 a case (6 x 75cl)