“I was suitably impressed with the quality of the Fèvre 2020s... they are indisputably excellent.” Allen Meadows, Burghound
It is true that, when it comes to Burgundy’s winemakers, scale doesn’t often correlate with quality. More vineyards means that the obsessional attention to detail needed to produce great wines is more thinly spread. Yet there are exceptions.
William Fèvre is both one of Chablis’ largest owners of vineyard land and one of its finest producers. Its Premier and Grand Cru wines consitently rank amongst the best in the region. Fèvre’s entry level wines offer some of the best combinations of quality and value available from Chablis. Fèvre owns multiple parcels of old vines, which translate into sinuous, textured, gastronomic wines, which can age effortlessly. They are always true to their terroir, with concentration, minerality and acidity that vary across vineyard to vineyard.
Fevre in 2020
“The wines of Domaine William Fèvre are stunning across the board.” Andy Howard MW, Decanter Magazine 2020 Chablis Vintage Report. Like many producers, Fèvre harvested early in 2020 – yet the exceptionally early flowering in March meant that the season was no shorter than in cooler years, and the wines retain incredible concentration, balance, and fine mineral structure. Alcohol levels are not especially high.
2020 was Fèvre’s best vintage since 2014, and with virtually no Chablis produced in 2021, there should be no question about filling the cellar with these exquisitely poised white wines.
Highlights include Les Clos Grand Cru, described by Andy Howard MW as showing “perfect balance between precision, concentration, acidity and ripe fruits, with oak that’s not at all apparent. A fresh, glorious wine. 97 Points.”
In Premier Cru, the Vaulorent has “complexity on both the nose and palate,” with “the richness and structure of the Grand Cru. 96 Points.” It is an absolute bargain.
But perhaps there is no better value to be found in the range than Fèvre’s village Chablis, which “will age for many years,” with “great energy and focus. Spice on the finish, precise acidity.”