Michel Gros Hautes Cotes de Nuits Blanc Fontaine St Martin 2021
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"The wines now offer a new layer of finesse and purity of fruit, with a delicate rose petal character, taking their expression to new heights of pleasure and quality. ”
Domaine Michel Gros finds its home in Vosne Romanée - arguably the most famous village of the Côte de Nuits, and the location of many of Burgundy’s most iconic vineyards, including La Romanée, La Tâche, and Richebourg. This village really is a who's who of Burgundy royalty. As you enter the village Jean-Yves Bizot's house is to the right and as your turn left you pass by Michel Gros' house, Anne Gros' house and then Madame Leroy's house. A stone’s throw away from the hallowed soils of Domaine Romanée-Conti - this sleepy little village is a go-to for Burgundy aficionados.
Michel Gros had the great fortune to inherit the renowned Clos des Réas vineyard, a 2 hectare monopole in Vosne-Romanée, owned by the family since 1860. The style of Michel’s wines – concentrated, rich and muscular – followed the style of the traditional wines of the Clos des Réas. Michel has now passed the mantle to his son Pierre, an engineer by training as well as an oenologist. While Pierre looks set to continue working in the muscular style typcial of the domaine, he joins this with a greater degree of precision and elegance. The wines now offer a new layer of finesse and purity of fruit, with a delicate rose petal character, taking their expression to new heights of pleasure and quality.
Gros’ Bourgogne Rouge is always worth considering, since it comes from vines wholly planted in VosneRomanée. In 2021, it shows a “pretty and very pinot nose of red berries and subtle earth nuances…. 86-88 Points” Allen Meadows, Burghound
The Chambolle-Musigny Villages consists two thirds of fruit from Premier Cru vineyard Les Argillières, which abuts Grand Cru Musigny. The 2021 shows “spicy aromas of plum, dark currant and violet… trimmed in just a soupçon of wood. There is very good volume to the sleek, refined and punchy medium-bodied flavors…. 88-91 Points” Allen Meadows, Burghound
As always, the jewel in the crown of Domaine Michel Gros is the Clos des Réas, which shows “a fragrant bouquet with sensual wild strawberry and raspberry notes, orange blossom and crushed rock…. This might be one of the most nuanced and desirable Clos des Réas that I have encountered from this address. Bravo. 92-94 Points” Neal Martin, Vinous
"Worth Seeking Out" Neal Martin, Vinous
"Michel's wines are supremely elegant and age remarkably well" Jasper Morris, MW
Wines available January 2024
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*All Prices In Bond* 88-91 Points Drink: 2029+ A subtle but not invisible application of wood sets off aromas of poached plum, dark currant, cherry and plenty of earth.
*All Prices In Bond* 92-94 Points 2025 - 2040 The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas 1er Cru, the monopole belonging to Michel Gros, has a fragrant bouquet with sensual wild strawberry and raspberry notes, orange blossom and crushed rock.
*All Prices In Bond* 91-93 Points Drink: 2031+ A restrained but perfumed and even spicier nose reflects notes of sandalwood, anise, exotic tea and pretty floral nuances on the mostly red and dark raspberry scents that are also trimmed is discreet wood.
*All Prices In Bond* 89-91 Points 2026 - 2040 The 2021 Clos de Vougeot le Grand Maupertui Grand Cru was showing quite a lot of reduction on the nose that makes it difficult to read. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins.
*All Prices In Bond* 89-91 Points 2025 - 2035 The usual blend of Aux Murgers and Aux Vignerondes composes the 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru. It has a fragrant nose with dried roses permeating the redcurrant and strawberry fruit; an underlying touch of mineralité becomes more prominent with time.
*All Prices In Bond* 86-88 Points 2025 - 2033 The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Chaliots has a light nose that like many wines from this appellation, is missing a bit of fruit intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, slightly chalky in texture, moderate weight.
*All Prices In Bond* 90-92 Points 2024 - 2038 The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin La Platière comes from a new parcel, this cuvée debuting with the 2019 vintage. It has a commendable nose, a mixture of red and black fruit, light loamy scents percolate through with time.
*All Prices In Bond* 90-92 Points 2025 - 2036 The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis en la Rue Vergy has darker fruit, mulberry and blackberry, sous-bois, and tobacco scents, missing a little harmony but it will stitch together during its élevage.
*All Prices In Bond* 84-86 Points 2023 - 2026 The 2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or, from the ‘other side’ of the RN74, is aged in foudres for 6 months and then barrel for 12 months. It has a simple but quite generous red cherry and strawberry scented nose.
*All Prices In Bond* 85-87 Points 2023 - 2028 The 2021 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Rouge comes from one instead of their two plots this year. It has a crisp nose with cranberry and redcurrant fruit, subtle tertiary scents in the background.
*All Prices In Bond* 89-91 Points 2024 - 2035 A bright pinkish purple. A light reduction with some quite forceful fresh plum fruit coming out underneath. Not especially luscious in 2021 but there is plenty of vivacious energy. Good acidity, a little barrel toast, surprising length. Clear-cut and dynamic.